This is a tale of one persons attempt at putting their life into words. Be them interesting, boring, or otherwise. I hope they provide some chronology of my education as a climber, person and adventure seeker.
7.20. The alarm gets snoozed. 7.25. Fuck I should really get up now. Then the ensueing madness as I try to find my keys/socks/phone/trousers/ [insert item of clothing or vital work day item].
Driving to work listening to music makes it all seem ridiculous. Saving money to go away. Working a '9-5' job (except my hours are more 8-3.15) Monday-Friday. The odds are never in your favour. 5/7days you cant make it out to climb. Especially with the stupid clocks going backwards and the daylight being non-existant. Im not complaining as such, because I need the money and I enjoy the work. I just wish that one wish that everyone with a passion has. I wish for there to be more hours (of nice weather and daylight) where I can get on living my life doing the stuff I really want to do. Climb.
Ah well. The last few months the weather has been shit and then it got cold for a bit but so much snow came down that in South Wales it was tough to get to anything worth climbing without a 4x4 or chains. Both of which I unfortunately dont have. I got to Sheffield and did some cool routes and problems just after New Year, as Scotland was in full on storm mode. Went to the Wye Valley, did some awesome routes (as ever- if you've never been get yourself there! Brilliant mulitpitch tradlimestone above a forest and river). Skied in the UK. Made a Snowboard. Got 1 winter route in North Wales ticked. Learnt to aid climb. All cool stuff but I inevitably want more. And more. And more. But for now I'm saving, climbing, and meeting some cool people. And as always occasionally over-indulging in Saturday night fever.
So what with work, climbing and general busyness I've neglected posting. Ah well
More groups are coming in thick and fast in work now so I've got less time to get out for myself especially when the weather is constantly refusing to play along with my scheming. However I have managed a good few days out on the hills and crags up and down the country.
The first was half term where I drove over to Sheffield for a bit of Grit climbing and some drinking too! After getting some routes in we packed the car and headed north to a grim looking forecast on the Ben. 2 half decent days on the hill and the weather was due to turn properly shit so after a 12hour day I drove back down to Sheffield. Ended up being pretty wasted and spent a wet day the following day watching shitty films and getting drunk! Yay for cosmopolitan life!
Dragging myself out of this funk , we went to Stanage for a gorgeous day on the grit again! Ticking Telli and some other classic routes. Then jumping back in the car for another drive back to the Cott. Basically I did a lot of driving around during the half term but i guess it was worth it, the weather in North Wales being even more shocking I was told! Below is a short video of our 'adventures'. Its not particularly good but shows what we got upto in a more detailed way.
So back into work and a good week with a different group of kids I managed to get to the wall but nothing else. It rained a lot that week! But am thoroughly enjoying this 'teaching' stuff and am applying for related jobs next year in part to help fund travels and also to build on my experience for a future career path (shock horror!). No worries though that wont be for a while, living to climb and travel will come first for a good few years yet!
The weekend forecast was good for a change so plans were hatched and partners found. The saturday was a classic, going to the Big-G and getting straight on Resolution Direct then Park Lane/Doomsville both brilliant E2s on a brilliant crag.
Me on P1 of Doomsville (Photo: T.Livingstone)
The following day on the Sunday I got out again with the infamous Tom Ripley and headed to Tremadog. Pant Ifan proved to be a bit moist so we stomped over to Craig y Castell, but because of Ripleys inability to climb popular routes we ended up on stuff no one else has heard of. And I'm glad we did! It was class! The rock was a bit friable at times but superb friction and no one else to fight off ab points! Quality day! We got a good few routes in; Pwyll for me was the highlight as it was excellent climbing but with not loads of gear for a bit of added spiceyness. Fun times!
Me post physco-crux on Pwyll with the best climbing still to come! (Photo: T.Ripley)
Back in work on the monday with a steaming hangover (Balsfords birthday drinks ended in 10cans...) and plans were hatched for the following afternoon. But with initial ideas put to rest by the weather (again), Livingstone and me armed in just our trainers ran up Grooved Arete in search of crag swag! Got a good haul of a few wires and a quickdraw (who leaves those!?). The rock was pretty damp and greasy which only added to the lunacy of racing the dark with no headtorches. Good craic all round!
Finally a morning at the Big-G saw us get on Emulator and Bezel, an ok day but the weather had decided to flee and we were in the clag most of the time. Fucking weather!!!
You can probably tell a theme running through my life at the moment! Whenever I try to organise something the weather has other ideas, but I guess its just a test of motivation! Gotta keep on going or I'll end up crushed and miserable!
I havent posted for a while for a number of reasons. Firstly i had a job interview at Ogwen Cottage in North Wales, which im glad to say i got :-) so as of September ill be the trainee instructor there! Literally can't wait! In less good news i basically flunked my dissertation and so had to stick my nose to the grindstone to drag my degree back upto a 2.1, I dont know the outcome as of yet but have got all my digits crossed.
During all this time i did manage to get out climbing and partying a bit, spending the bank holiday weekend in North Wales getting some good climbing done in even better locations. And also getting the last taste of the grit i'll have for a while, finally ticking some classics like Long Johns Slab at Froggatt and Eliminator at Stanage. As there are too many tales to put into this post i thought id describe it in videos and pictures.... Enjoy.
The 5b Slab pitch on Superdirect (Dinas Mot)
Guns out for the Rainbow, a rainy and blowy evening at Froggatt
Getting the good crimps on Long Johns Slab (Froggatt)
My Honary 21st Dirty Pint.....It was drunk in one.......
I will endeavour to keep more upto date with bloggings from now on as this summer should be a good one, as its all about getting good at climbing!
The past two weeks have been pretty hectic, with increasing uni workload and trying to get out climbing at every opportunity ive managed to get some good routes done. Ive also managed to lose my head a bit but have taken some biggish falls to try and sort that out.
Am still trying to get out as much as possible but with my trip to chamonix coming up tomorrow ive got less and less time. Going to get out on the grit once more tomorrow afternoon i think for a quick blast before hitting the road for 2 weeks.
